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Thursday 31 July 2014

Vela Luka to Miljet

From Loviste it's just a short run down to the medieval town of Korcula. As has become our custom, we avoided the marina and harbour buoys and carried on to a little bay called Raxxxx. On the way past, we called in on the fuel quay but found they were out of Diesel! The bay is nice and quiet with just two small restaurants and no buoys. Holding and shelter was good on sand so we were very comfortable. There are no shops in the village so we took the dinghy round the headland to Lumbarda where there is a medium sized supermarket and a small veg market. Well stocked, we spied out both of the restaurants as Serenity had recommended one - unfortunately, we weren't sure which one. We plumped for the bigger on the north side.as the other looked like a little hut. The meal was good but judging by the number of locals crowding out the smaller one, I suspect we got it wrong. If we're in the area again, will give it a go.
Early next morning we caught the bus into Korchula and spent a few happy hours wandering around the unspoiled little walled town. It's an interesting design with streets in a feather pattern. Apparently it's all designed to cool it down as the south facing streets are curved inhibiting entry of the hot Scirocco. While the north facing ones are straight facilitating entry of the cool dry Bora.
The church is unassuming and rather nice. It's belfry is great! You can climb to the top (for a small fee) but no compromises have been made for modern figures. The initial spiral staircase is very narrow and steep and the upper part is even narrower. It's a real medieval experience. Once at the top, there is great view of Korcula.
There was a beautiful windjammer called Sea Cloud tied up at the dock and we spent 1/2 hour talking to a lovely young lady who is the third officer. The ship was built 100 years ago by the Kellogg family as a yacht and has been superbly maintained. She is now a luxury cruise ship with 60 crew and 60 passengers. They sail as much as they can and there are no televisions or other mainstream entertainment on board. Just good books, erudite company and expert tours. Wow!
We returned to Rosa by bus and decided to set off immediately for Miljet as the weather looked a bit iffy next day. Sea Cloud crossed our path under sail - what a beautiful sight.
We arrived in Pxxxxxxx bay expecting to find a good sheltered anchorage only to be sadly disappointed. It was almost all too deep and those places that were less than 15m would not hold the anchor. We tried several times and then gave up and motored quickly round to Pomena hoping for a better result.
And got it. It's fully sheltered, free, excellent holding and with plenty of space. The tiny town is surprisingly well provided with supermarket, bakery, pasticery, ATM and the inevitable bars and restaurants. We anchored the first night then went in and paid the modest park fees (£8 pp for  up to 7 nights and extra £2 per person if you want to go to the monastery). Next morning we did the tourist bit on the bus and boat to the salt lakes and the Benedictine Monastery. The monastery is pretty private as it's still very much occupied but it's a picturesque location and the swimming is really nice. Both lakes are connected to the sea by narrow channels so they are nowhere near as salty as Mir in Telascica but pretty nonetheless. When we got back, we went over to Ogigja restaurant quay and booked dinner. Lucifer appreciated a walk after being shut in for the day and spent the rest of the time miaowing to get at the local cats on the dock.
The meal and service were very good although not quite as cheap as we expected. They also let us have 200litres of water which we were desperate for.
Seriously bad weather was predicted for Wednesday so next morning (Tuesday) we found a good anchoring spot and chilled other than walking Lucifer within an inch of his life.
And the weather arrived exactly as predicted at midnight (thank you PredictWind). 30+ knots of wind  which kept going until the following afternoon with heavy driving rain and some thunder peaking at 1500. It seems to be gone now so everyone around us is gradually coming out of hibernation. Depending on the forecast, it's Ston tomorrow.

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