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Friday 1 August 2014

Last few days in Croatia

We did get away and we did go to Ston. On the way we called into the fuel quay at Miljet Sobra. A very efficient operation. Although slightly scary as two huge ferries maneuvered a few meters off our bow.
Mediaeval water fountain
Salt works
Ston is a long way up a blind and fairly shallow channel but well worth the visit. Moor side-to on the quay for 10kuna per meter. There are reasonable shops and a market in town and a medieval fountain you can fill your cans from. Apparently people come from miles around as the water is so good.






The traditional salt works (the reason for the town's existence and former wealth) are still very much operational. Unfortunately, due to the freakishly wet summer, it was on hold as the salt pans can't dry out.









Mali Ston and Boznia
The huge wealth in times past, attracted pirates and invaders so they built huge walls to protect the town and also the town of Mali Ston 3Km away across the isthmus. The two are joined by the longest wall in Europe. It runs high up over the hill rising 20m into the air and with frequent massive forts. An exhausting walk but well worth it. Even better, when you get to Mali Ston you will find cold beer and wonderful seafood all farmed in the gulf that separates it from Bosnia Herzegovina.

Ston from top of walls
Walls go up seemingly forever
Lopud Cave
Next night we anchored in the east bay on  Lopud. It's a nice little free anchorage with good holding on sand. Nothing much there but nice walks in the woods, swimming, snorkeling and a sea-cave to explore.

Dubrovnik
We decided to skip Dubrovnik and return another time when the tourist season is not in full swing. It's a impressive sight just to sail past though.
And so to Cavtat to check out of Croatia. We anchored in the north bay. Bloody awful holding but persistence, particularly well out from the shore will find mediocre holding. We had no problem but were told that katabatic winds at night are common and then boats dragging all over the shop is the norm. We shopped, chilled a bit and explored the pretty little town, Next morning we got round to the customs quay just before 0800 and door stepped the harbour master. They were on time, very efficient and friendly, stamped papers and sent us off to the police - who were OK but not so nice. They were late and unapologetic and insisted I stand outside while they chatted and laughed inside. Eventually, they called me in and in 5 minutes I was free to go - RIGHT NOW! They were not at all pleased that L was in town getting bread and other last minute supplies.
We got away by 0830 and escaped the man who takes your lines for a mandatory 40Kuna. Result,

Did we enjoy Croatia? Yes definitely and we will be back to see a lot more. We didn't find it very expensive but only because we were careful and had lots of advice from others. Being ripped off is a constant worry that does take the shine off it a little.

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